How can we transform a gravel lot into arable, productive soil?

Freedom gardens at the Fairgrounds has inherited a piece of land that most would write-off as a weedy, gravelly, parking lot.   We want to grow vegetables, flowers, and fruit here, and YOU can help us - read on!

Our mission includes the demonstration of simple technologies that can be deployed to create abundance out of neglect.

We have 3 acres of space allotted to use at the Fairgrounds.  So far, we have 450 built square feet of cold frames, where we are growing food 8 months out of the year.  We have constructed a gravity drip irrigation system, have de-constructed a greenhouse, are re-modeling a horse barn and digging out of an epic blizzard.

This summer, we are taking on a project to drastically expand our growing space, but we need help to plan it.

We will transform 1200 ft^2 of former gravel parking lot into food, flower, and fruit gardens.

We will accomplish this task using low-input and replicable techniques.

We will reclaim four, 100 x 3 ft sections of parking lot, using four different techniques (because unlike politicos, we cannot claim to know the right answer before taking action)

Each technology tested will adhere to the principles:
1) Technology can be replicated with equipment or supplies available in a typical suburbanite community
2) Technology will depend upon the activity of organisms such as bacteria, fungi, invertebrates, vertebrates whenever possible, and not upon geologically fossilized lifeforms, typically sold as gasoline, diesel or natural gas. 

We are committed to learning something and sharing what we learn, so we will try four different ways of doing this, all of which we think have a good chance of working.

We also hope to involve a lot of people in our endeavors, intellectually and physically. Here is your chance to contribute intellectually.

In this blog post, I will propose four ideas to transform a 3 foot by 100 foot section of gravel parking lot into a soil capable of sustaining a vigorous vegetable garden in one years time.

Do you have a better idea?  Let us know!

After getting your feedback, we will modify our plan, and keep you updated on the progress and our findings.  Think of it as citizen science, except other organisms do the heavy lifting.

See our proposal below to help us out!

Late Summer, 2012 View of the Missoula County Fairgrounds. Freedom Farms is located within the dark polygon at the bottom.  2013 installed drip irrigation tanks and cold frames are not shown.  Project area discussed in this blog is located along fence in under text reading "Project Area"

The site (see photo):  Missoula's first airport. Unirrigated corner of largest contiguous publicly owned parcel in Missoula, bogged down in a re-development plan.  Parking spot for duelies and horse-trailers when the rodeo is in town.  Former grassland.  Compacted as a *&^%#$.  Annual weeds, sparse sod, and compacted gravelly dirt to contend with.

Hurdles: Soil compaction, soil organic content, nitrogen levels, low biological activity

Tools: Seeds.  Worms.  Woodchips.  Compost.  Drip irrigation.  Volunteers with spade forks.  (equipment or supplies available in a typical suburbanite community)

Goals:  Within one year, use beds as vegetable and flower beds.  Limit required labor, inputs.

Proposed treatments, for four 30 x 1 m rows:

1) Name: "Roots dig deep"
Soil treatment:   Plot receives weeding, surface hoeing.
Seeding regime:  Plot seeded with mix of daikon radishes and clover.
Water: Watered weekly with drip irrigation.

3) Name: "Humans help roots dig"
Soil treatment:    Plot receives human spade-fork turn-over down to 8"
Seeding regime: Plot seeded with mix of daikon radishes and clover.
Water: Watered weekly with drip irrigation.

3) Name: "Fungi and bacteria party down"
Soil treatment:    Plot receives weeding, surface hoeing.
Seeding regime  After soil treatment, plot is covered with lasagna compost piles, left in place all summer.
Water: Watered weekly with drip irrigation.

4) Name: "Humans help microbes party"
Soil treatment:    Plot receives human spade-fork turn-over down to 8"
Seeding regime: After soil treatment, plot is covered with lasagna compost piles, left in place all summer
Water: Watered weekly with drip irrigation.

and because we can't resist
5) Name: "Let the weeds grow tall"
Soil treatment:   Give it a good hoe.  Throw some shallow amounts of compost over mulch after plants are established.
Seeding regime:  Have you ever thought that weeds grow in parking lots because they are the proper plants to restore the ecosystem?  We will seed with common mullein, skeleton mustard and?
Water: Watered weekly with drip irigation.


If you are still with us, we decided to try the power of daikon radishes and root crops to create a deep, tilthy soil in part from reports from corn-country in the mid-west.  Industrialized corn systems there are alternating corn with daikon radishes in year 1, and then trading the place of corn and radish crops in year 2, in order to exploit radish's nitrogen storage and soil tillage.

Thanks for your support of Freedom Gardens at the Fairgrounds.  Intellectual or not, we would love your help this summer!

Yardening and Food Forests

While we've been seeking permanence at the Fairgrounds, it seemed appropriate to begin a demonstration project at home. What better way to invest in your future than to plant fruit bearing trees and bushes! Fortunately for us, our house sits on approximately 5 city lots. I'm not sure what that is in terms of actual acreage, but we've got plenty of space for an urban food forest/farm.

Strangely enough, I met the landowner before I ever had any intention of living here. At that point in time, she had placed one hugelkultur bed and a handful of fruit trees, which included two apple, two peach, and two plum trees. There also existed on site, two extremely old apple trees, a crab apple tree, an abundant plum tree, a choke cherry, and a handful of lilac bushes. To my surprise, I was offered space to grow edible crops, and jumped at the opportunity - mind you, at this point in time, I was living in a studio apartment and had only a 15X15 rented garden space.

Hugel bed #1, after 2013 fall planting

I immediately focused on the hugel bed. What is a hugel bed you might ask? In the simplest of terms, a hugel bed is a raised garden bed filled with rotting wood. The rotting wood provides nutrients and organic matter to the soil and ultimately raises the water holding capacity of the soil. The greater the water holding capacity of the soil, the less irrigation necessary. That being said, I quickly identified and purchased four cold tolerant blueberry species, one gooseberry bush, and a few raspberry roots. Blueberries prefer a rather acidic soil ~ 5 pH, so before planting, I tested and amended the soil pH. Here in the Missoula Valley, our soils are typically on the basic side ~ 7.5, thus, we addamendments of sulphur, coffee grounds, and compost to help pull the pH down.

Also on the property at this time, in addition to a handful of tomatoes and peppers we planted, were rhubarb, horseradish, garlic and raspberries. That's how the plot stayed for the next two months, until the previous renters decided to move and I decided to move in. The first thing we did after moving in, was to remove a row of ornamental juniper trees between our property and our neighbors to the east.  We then covered this area in wood chips and let it rest. At this point, it was September and the leaves were beginning to fall. After the garlic was harvested from a garden plot on the north side of the property, we began hauling as many of the fallen leaves into the area as possible. The idea was to bring in as much organic matter as we could, and let it compost over the winter and into the spring. After filling the garden space with roughly 3 feet of leaves, we laid our shovels and rakes to rest for the season.

Come February, things began falling into place. We received a clutch of chickens from a friend who could no longer care for them. The most natural place to house the birds was in the garden area where we had stocked with fallen leaves - suddenly we were adding nitrogen to our carbon supply and the compost engine was started.  Bear in mind, for efficient composting, we must have a carbon to nitrogen ratio of about 30 parts Carbon to 1 part Nitrogen, otherwise written as 30:1. Now in addition to a completing our compost circle, we also had a bi-product of eggs!

The next step for planning our urban food forest/farm was to map out our available area. Once mapped, we were able to identify space for new fruit trees, shrubs, and hugel beds.

The first map of our urban food forest/farm - the original is drawn on graphing paper and each square is equivalent to 4 feet

When I drew up the original diagram above, many of trees (circles) did not exist. Once I had diagramed where everything was in the yard, I began proposing other trees/shrubs to plant, drawing a circle to represent their canopy. The idea here was to fill the vertical top of my growing space with fruit producing tree canopy. As the trees grow, we can manipulate them through pruning - creating space for sunlight to shine through, prompting some trees to grow taller and others to bush out more, whichever the circumstances call for. With the new plantings suggested, the next step was to identify which species we would purchase.

On the issue of plant selection, we must consider our climate. The USDA has designated hardiness zones which outline the average lowest temperatures for a given location. For instance, here in Missoula, they've identified -15 as our lowest average temperature. Thus, when selecting plants, we need to make sure they'll survive temperatures as low as -15. Fortunately, many nurseries will have this information and can help you choose the right plants. Perhaps the best case scenario for obtaining new plants is to chose a nursery close to your location.  For us, that nursery was Cloud Nine Farms. Due to their proximity and location, they were already producing cultivars that were tolerant to our climate, which made our selection super simple. By spring, we had obtained and planted another 16 trees/shrubs, including Seckel Pear, Pioneer Chinese Apricot, Pipestone Plum, Golden Currant, Saskatoon Juneberry, Jostaberry, Northland Blueberry, Red Lake Currant, Patriot Blueberry, Consort Black Currant, York Elderberry, Pixwell-Green Gooseberry, 2 American Hazelnuts, and 2 Lewis' Mockorange to help entice pollinators.  The diagram above includes all of these.

Hugel bed #2, after the wood has been buried

Once the new plants were in the ground, we began to scheme. We wanted more hugel beds, but needed the supplies.  Slowly but surely, we were able to acquire logs from around the neighborhood throughout the summer.  By late summer, we were on our way to digging in the second hugel. When it was complete, we decided to identify more plants for a fall planting. This time around, we worked with Blackfoot Native Plants and paid particular attention to pollinator plants.

Pollinator plants, or flowering plants, are essential to any farm operation, as they usher pollinator insects onto the farm, and ultimately increase production. The trick with pollinator plants is to make sure you've got something flowering during every moment of the growing season AND to include as many colors as you can. While this seems easy enough, it does call for some research. Fortunately, Blackfoot Native offered a complete list of every plant they had in stock, including flowering times and colors.  This made our work extremely easy!

Our last planting of the 2013 growing season included our purchases from Blackfoot Native and a handful of perennial herbs, which we started from seed.  These include: Anise Hyssop, Flat-leaf Parsley, Monarda, Sphmun, Bear Grass, Oregon Grape, Sage, Georgia Sunshine, Clematis, Mountain Big Sage, Smooth Blue Aster, Yucca, Yellow Praire Coneflower, Great Basin Wild Rye, Bitterroot, Little Bluestem Grass, Rubber Rabbit Bush, Blue Grama, White Prairie Aster, Fringed Sage, Tufted Hairgrass, Bluebunch Wheatgrass, Pulsatilla, Lucifer Crocosmia, Silky Phacelia, Colorado Columbine, Yellow Agoseris, Lewis Monkeyflower, Chives, Roundleaf Alum Root, 2 Thimble Berries, Rigid Goldenrod, Canada Goldenrod, Chocolate Mint, and a handful of Raspberries.  You can imagine our feeling of accomplishment as we wound chicken wire around our beds, finding that we had just enough to keep those wonderful birds out of our freshly planted areas!

As the growing season came to a close, we continued the leaf gathering practice we had began a year prior. This time, however, we gathered enough leaves to cover the chicken/garden area AND the entire food forest/farm area. As the final loads of leaves were brought it, snow began to fill the air and eventually cover everything we had planted. The true test of our labor will be successful growth during the 2014 growing season.  As the snow melts away, we'll measure our placements and note our progress on the yard map. Once the plantings of the 2013 fall are documented, we'll identify more planting locations and set in on more shrubs, hugel beds, perennial leaf vegetables, and perhaps a few more trees.  As always, we'll bring you along on our journey! Thank you for reading!

Urban Food Forest/Farm after fall planting, before leaf speading

Indoor Gardening

Here in Montana, once October rolls around, our greenery begins to fade away. A few growers will have small stock piles of kale, arugula, spinach and other cold tolerant edibles, but for the most part, the average person must rely heavily on the grocery store rather than the local food grower. What do you do if you don't have an opportunity to build a large project demonstrating year round food growing? You build a smaller food producing system in your house, of course! The purpose of this blog entry is simply to offer you an alternative to grocery store dependency.

In-wall shelves converted to plant starter center

When Chris and I began brainstorming our venture at the Fairgrounds, we decided that first and foremost, we needed a place to start seeds and store our plants until temperatures rose and we were able to move plants outside. Fortunately, I had some unused storage space in the basement that fit the bill.

We began with a set of in-wall shelves. I knew I'd need to run wires from the top to the bottom of the unit, so I cut a narrow opening from one side to the other on each shelf. This created an opening for wires, as well as, a void for air flow and hardware for hanging lights. I then strung a length of wire from one end of the void to the other. I attached chain to the wires, which allowed me to hang light fixtures. We decided upon single bulb T5 light fixtures, as they offered the necessary light spectrum at a reasonably low electric requirement. With lights in place, the last item to install was a combination thermometer/hygrometer.  This is incredibly important as plants tend to thrive at temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees F and humidity levels between 40% and 60%. Another aspect plants appreciate is a slight dip in nightly temperature. We were able to meet this demand by simply placing our lights on a timer.

This void allows air flow, wire passage, and room for hardware

During the day, when the lights were on, the growing space achieved temperatures upwards of 80 degrees F and humidity levels remained nearly constant at 55%. During the night, when the timer turned the lights off, we noticed temperatures dropping into the mid sixties with humidity falling approximately 10%. As a result, we had amazing growth and incredibly healthy looking plants.

Grow room complete with grow tower

Once our seeds had sprouted and grown for a week or two, it was time to transplant them to larger pots.  We then realized we needed more room! Next we converted an area adjacent to the sprouting closet and affixed a halogen grow light system. We piled in as many shelves as we could find to utilize vertical space, and just for fun, we set up a grow tower! This allowed us to move mature plants into a separate growing space, while freeing up seed starting space. Before long, we had more plants than we knew what to do with - some we ate, some we sold at a winter farmer's market, and others we held on to for personal use and transplant into cold frames at the Freedom Gardens. All in all, we were growing enough edible green leaves, tomatoes, and beans to fulfill our winter salad needs, while creating a sellable surplus, which helped us subsidize the additional electric charges.

Habaneros, beans, and duck weed for my fishies

This does bring a very important topic to, pardon our pun, light! With any type of indoor growing operation, there will be electrical costs associated. We noticed our additional electric pull added approximately $40 to our monthly statement. However, we were also selling roughly $20 worth of plants each weekend, so all in all, our sales paid for the electric and added to our soil and pots fund. With a little more space, one could reasonably produce enough edible greens to supply their family and create a sellable product in addition to plant sales. While you wouldn't necessarily get rich from such a scenario, you could certainly pay for the additional energy AND save money on groceries.  Saving money is pretty close to earning money, isn't it?

Two more notes worth mentioning. My new common mantra is this - fish are to indoor growing as chickens are to outdoor growing. More on the chickens laters, but plenty of folks will suggest that you need some type of fancy store bought fertilizer to get the best plant growth and production. I beg to differ. The fish tank featured in the Graywater/Aquaponics Innovations blog entry has served as a wonderful resource for plant water. I feed the fish, the fish excrete waste, which I then suck out of the fish tank to keep it clean. This fish bi-product is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and other essential nutrients for plant growth. In fact, it is the very reason why aquaponics works! It's no wonder then that pouring this fish wastewater on plants is a great idea. Add to this the fact that we include worm castings in our potting soil mix, and we've created a soil ecosystem rich in microorganisms - a living plant medium for a living plant!

The other mentionable point regards pests. Unfortunately, we acquired two rosemary plants that apparently contained aphids! These little pests soon began to inhabit many of our plants and two options of containment arose - pesticide or alternative treatment. We chose a combination of the two. At first we utilized neem oil - an organic pesticide derived from the neem tree.  Then we brought forth the faithful lady bug. Together these two methods kept the aphids at bay; however, I did make one startling observation. As with any insect, once you have enough of them, reproduction is inevitable. We began to notice lady bug larvae on our plants - Great! The downside, however, came with the neem oil.  Neem oil coats plant leaves, which herbivore insects eat, causing eventual death. The ladybug larvae spend their time on these same leaves, eating the aphids which have ingested the neem oil.  Guess what happens next. They died too. Our take home lesson - choose one or the other and remain vigilant. I believe we could have continued to add lady bugs to the room to gain control over the aphids rather than utilizing the spray. In this manner, we could have promoted lady bug reproduction and perhaps eventually maintained a population by which to control future aphid infestations. This will be our method the next time the aphids present themselves.  As always, we'll be sharing our findings with you! Thanks for reading and happy seeding!

An evening salad brought to us by our productive basement

2013 Growing Season Overview

When we began this blog, we wanted to be truthful and accurate in our statements.  Our goal is to share our successes and failures in such a way that you the reader have a firm starting point should you find yourself with plants on the brain and shovel in hand.  With this in mind, we share with you the synopsis of our 2013 growing season:

The largest hurdle of the 2013 growing season was securing permanent placement at the Fairground. Any farmer knows that planning, preparing, seeding, and harvesting takes a substantial amount of time.  Add to this, the fact that the soils on our site are mediocre at best and must be amended prior to planting, and one quickly realizes the necessity of permanence. This being said, we continued toward our goal of installing 450 square feet of cold frame space, complete with a conservative irrigation system, without any proof that we would be able to utilize the space in the following year.  Fortunately our perseverance paid off and we were able to secure a three year commitment in late August.  Our foot is in the door and we hope to establish true permanence through collaboration with our local county extension office.  Until this permanence is gained, we will continue to install movable infrastructure by which to increase growing space and soil amendment capabilities.

Our construction timeline began in April when we purchased our triple layer polycarb.  Our first pilot cold frame was created by the end of April and we began building the joists for the frames at the Fairgrounds.  During this time, we ordered 15 cubic yards of moo poo - a double digested cow manure product - for use in soil amendment.  By the middle of June, we had installed the base of the cold frames and prepared the soil within.  We quickly got to work building our irrigation system, and by late June, we finished working out the kinks.

Chris giving transplants initial irrigation

By July, we were ready to plant and given the name of our project - Freedom Gardens - found it appropriate to place our first transplants in the ground on July 4th.  Our first round of planting included the southern-most mound and the cold frames.  We planted various tomatoes, green and purple basil, endive, purple and green okra, rutabaga, leeks, various hot peppers, and various lettuces inside the cold frames - all of which we began ourselves from seed!  As noted in our previous blog, we seeded daikon radish, clover, and bunch grasses on the southern mound.

Just a few comments before diving into each of these individually: we did not complete the cold frame lids before planting, which ended up creating a height problem when we did place the lids in October.  By not having lids in the summer months, we were able to circumvent temperature complications inside the boxes; however, we quickly realized that our plants were succumbing to the intense summer sunlight - our well watered babies appeared droopy and generally overheated.  We were able to solve this problem by placing shade cloth over the cold frames, which we left in place until the creating of the lids.  With the shade cloth in place, our plants quickly bounced back and grew vigorously - in fact, the shade cloth helped keep our basil tender and delicious throughout the growing season, but more on this later.

Now for the fun part - how did everything grow!?  Well, to be honest, we seeded the southern mound too late in the season.  Perhaps our construction priority distracted us?!  Regardless, by the time we dropped seed in July, the rains of June had nearly ceased and our seed germination rate appeared hindered.  However, as our "Big pile of dirt" blog points out, we did observe quite a few of these seeded plants maturing into seed bearers, thus offering the potential for self seeding in 2014.

We planted our various tomatoes in the back of two boxes in an effort to utilize vertical space.  The plants faired well, but we did observe some herbivory to the fruits.  While the culprit was never identified - rabbit, mouse, or rat? - we believe the problem may be solved now that lids cover the cold frames.  Our tomatoes continued to provide fruit throughout the growing season and into November, however, once temperatures reached the lower forties, our tomatoes reached their demise.  In this case, the cold frames would be perfect for early planted tomatoes that would be removed before November, but we may simply save the tomatoes for the terraced space we plan to create this spring.

Tomatoes and basil on the first day of planting

Our basil flourished especially well once we placed shade cloth over it.  While we are unsure of the volume yielded, we can certainly attest to harvesting tender, tasty basil throughout the growing season.  Unfortunately, our procrastination in lid development led to an untimely demise of our beautiful basil plants, as the first frost of the season was more than they could bear.  We'll have to see how the lids alter their longevity this season.

We knew we would have some extra work on our hands with the endives.  Ultimately, endive must be clumped or tied at the bottom with soil mounded around the base to create that tender while leaf we've grown accustomed to; however, we never quite grasped when to perform this task.  Perhaps we grew the wrong variety?  At any rate, our endive was quite bitter and grew rather unruly.  They were perhaps our greatest failure of the 2013 growing season, as the growth was primarily wasted.  If we decide to try again, we'll need to brush up on our research, but rest assured, we'll share whatever we learn with you!

Who knew okra grew so beautifully and produced such a harvest!  As stated above, we planted two different species of okra - one purple and one green.  Both performed marvelously and yielded fruit clear into November when the cold moved in to stay.  We learned a couple very important lessons with the okra in 2013.  Okra will grow very tall, 3ft+, if you allow it to - this in mind, we'll be keeping it out of the cold frames in 2014.  Okra fruit also grows quite woody, or fibrous, if allowed to grow longer than two inches (we're currently running an experiment to see if fermentation will break this woodiness down).  I believe that we will see larger plants and a greater harvest in 2014 by cutting fruits when they are 2 inches or less in size.  I know we'll have more edible okra, by doing this!

We began the rutabaga from seed in the cold frame.  Our method was to spread the seed, moisten the seed and soil, and then place shade cloth directly on top of the seeded soil to decrease water loss from evaporation.  While this proved to be a very successful seeding method, we did find that our close spacing led to smaller root harvest.  Ultimately our harvest was small and the big take home lesson for rutabaga was space.  For this reason, we'll keep rutabaga out of the cold frames in 2014. That being said, we were able to harvest tasty rutabaga leaves into December, but once temperatures began staying below 30 degrees F, the leaves were quick to wilt away.

The leeks have proven to be the most tolerant plant of the 2013 growing season.  Planted when extremely small, they have grown to inch diameters at the base.  The cold has not seemed to effect the plants, as we still have quite a collection of them inside the cold frames.  To date, our Montana climate has dipped below zero degrees F for at least two full weeks and still our leeks stand tall and green.  In fact, the leeks seem to grow sweeter and sweeter as we move into the 2014 growing season.  We'll definitely be planting more of these come spring!

What can be said of the lettuces - they seem to grow like weeds no matter where you plant them! We grew lettuces throughout the 2013 season and have successfully kept a few throughout the winter. The cold frames seem to be the perfect habitat for head lettuces.  We were able to harvest a head or two every week clear until we had harvested all of them.  Lettuces did so well, that we decided to plant more at the end of the season to see how long they could battle the Montana cold, but more on that later.

Hot peppers on the day of transplanting

Last but not least, my favorite, hot peppers.  We transplanted white habaneros, culinary thai, long cayenne, bird's eye piquin, and scotch bonnet, which we grew from seed.  All grew amazingly and seemed to relish the hot summer sun!  These plants grew healthy and tall, but quickly succumbed to cooler temperatures in September.  It seems that as soon as the cool fall temperatures set in, chili leaves droop and drop. Fortunately, their fruits can be harvested at this time and thanks can be given to the dying plant. We'll probably place hot peppers in the cold frames for 2014, but we'll have to keep their heights down by pinching the tops.

A collection of harvested hot peppers

We spread arugula seeds in late August, utilizing a method to that of the rutabaga mentioned above. Once roughly 75% of our seeds sprouted, we removed the ground level shade cloth.  The arugula performed similar to the lettuces and basil, yielding several harvests before succumbing to sub-zero temperatures in December.  One change we'll make in the 2014 growing season concerning arugula, is spacing.  While we were able to harvest large quantities of arugula, we were not able to do it quickly or efficiently, as it was spaced too closely together. Unfortunately, we did not bear this in mind when spreading the seed, because we were more focused on maintaining a high germination rate.  One effort we could have made would have been to completely remove harvested plants to make more space for remaining plants to fill.  As it was, we simply cut the tops of all the plants and allowed the bases to sprout more leaves.  Our 2014 attempt will limit the number of seeds we spread in an effort to keep spacing a little wider.  With greater spacing, we should observe larger plants and a quicker, more efficient harvest.

Cold frames in October, during the day of lid placement

Our lid template was completed by mid September, just as the frosts were moving in.  By October 4th, the lid frames were completed and we began attaching them onto the boxes.  As you can see in the picture below, however, many of our plants were taller than the cold frames and had to be cut back. At this point the frosts had begun wilting the tomatoes, basil, and hot peppers.  In fact, the basil had completely died by late October, followed by the tomatoes and peppers by the middle of November.  I believe the okra harvest could have continued longer than October, but cutting the plants back seemed to place a great toll on the plant and they too where completely dead by the end of November.

Our last planting of 2013 occurred in the middle of October.  We planted green butter crunch, red butter crunch, blue scotch curled kale, bell isle cress, red chard, baby choi, a fall seed mix, broccoli de. cicco, and collards.  Now was our chance to see the true effects of the cold frames.

To date - bear in mind, we've had at least two full weeks of sub zero temperatures - it appears as though the red chard, baby choi, broccoli, and collards have succumbed to the cold.  That being said, it appears as though some of the butter crunch, kale, cress, and something in the fall mix has survived even the coldest winter temperatures.  Our immediate observation after proof of life is that the plants are not growing much at all.  We believe (confirmed by Elliot Coleman in Winter Harvest Handbook) that the lesser angle and lack of sunlight is to blame.  Perhaps our fall planting should occur earlier so as to have more mature plants heading into the grip of winter, thus increasing our harvest season, rather than increasing the fall to winter growing season.  The next observation we've made is that the cold frames appear rather dry inside by late January - this is another potential problem we'll have to address in the coming growing seasons.

Oh the joy of farming!  Every year holds a new lesson to learn as we make our way to a more resilient and self sufficient lifestyle.  We hope you enjoy your journey with us as we progress further into the creation of an abundant food system and successful classroom experience.  Thank you and stay tuned!

Fall planting in the evening sunlight

Gravity-Fed Drip Irrigation

In response to the most severe drought in 40 years, The California State Water Project just shut off its spigots to dozens of communities and farmers, in order to maintain the little water to use "as wisely as possible".

What could be wiser than reducing your dependence on California to produce cheap organic food, given their reliance on top-down irrigation projects that are susceptible to collapse as their snowpacks begin to fail?

What could be wiser than utilizing the water that already runs off your home or garage to water your garden, and avoid paying hundreds of dollars a summer to water mitigation company for a public resource?

At Freedom Gardens at the Fairgrounds, we hope to educate the public about ways in which they can reduce their dependence on a susceptible food-system. We hope to free ourselves from the need to use public water systems to water our gardens, by capturing rainwater. We will free ourselves from the need to use fossil fuels to pump water, by employing small solar powered pumps to fill tanks for a gravity-fed drip irrigation system for our gardens.  We hope to further reduce water use by employing cultural practices that encourage healthy deep root systems, and utilizing soils high in water-holding organic matter.

We need to move forward on rainwater harvesting, but last summer we solved one part of the equation: we built a gravity-fed drip irrigation system to water our gardens.

Our garden is located at the Missoula County Fairgrounds, next to two large horse barns on the far south end of the property.  Between the 1920's and 1941, the area served as the Missoula Airport.  The water pipes serving this part of the property are original wood pipes, and are so leaky that the Fair can only afford to turn them on twice per year.  As such, we did not have a reliable water source at our garden.  The success of any agricultural project relies on water.

We designed a gravity-fed drip irrigation system.

The fairgrounds uses a 3000 gallons water truck to keep the dust down.  The Fair Caretaker, Glen, agreed to use this truck to fill our reservoirs if we made it convenient for him.

We were able to procure a load of industrial bulk containers, or IBCs for short.  Each IBC holds approximately 280 gallons - a string of 8 would allow us to get >2000 gallons of water in only one trip.  When considering a water reservoir consider your chosen container's previous use.  Our IBCs previously housed a soy-based glue, which we were able to wash out with a pressure washer easily.

The beginnings of the bulk head extension. 

With all our supplies, we were ready to begin piecing the irrigation puzzle together.The first piece of the puzzle was to link all of the IBCs together  using a header that all tanks could be filled and drained as one unit rather than eight individual units.  Our first attempt included attaching the bottom four IBCs in parallel, then branching upwards into the tanks above with 2 inch PVC.  We quickly realized that the air inside the tanks needed to go somewhere prior to being replaced with water.  The solution became apparent as soon as the problem - we needed to add bulkheads to each tank.

Bulkheads allow us to add a second hole to each IBC, which in turn allows an exit for air as water fills the void.  The key to remember here is that the air will eventually be replaced by water as the bottom tanks fill and the top tanks begin taking on water.  To prevent water loss and to allow the top tanks to fill, we simply built the bulkhead exits higher than the maximum fill point on the tanks.  We could now move on to the next stage of problem solving - filling the tanks quickly and efficiently.

A fire hose connects the reservoir
the tanker truck

After inspecting the tanker truck, we purchased a simple fire hose would allow us to attach to both tanker truck and reservoir. Our first attempt was to connect to only one of the top IBCs in order to fill the reservoir, but we quickly noted that the tanker was able to pump water faster than the reservoir was able to receive it.  We solved this problem by creating a manifold that allows water to enter through each of the top tanks at once.  By spreading the tanker flow from one to four tanks at once, we were able to minimize the time necessary for a complete and efficient fill.  We were now ready to pursue the irrigation lines.

As we mentioned in previous blog entries, the fairgrounds staff conveniently created to large berms to the west of our plot.  The berm closest to our coldframes stands roughly 12 feet tall.  Given that pounds per square inch [psi] increases by .4 for each foot, we calculated that our lowest system psi was 12ft * .4 = 4.8 psi. Given that each IBC is roughly 4 feet tall, and we've stacked two on top of each other, we calculated our maximum system psi to be (12ft + 4ft + 4ft) * .4 = 8 psi.  Once our calculations were complete, we knew that we needed to identify an irrigation system capable of functioning within 4 and 8 psi.  A perusal of available irrigation components yielded the John Deere T-Tape series - perfect not only for its function at low flows, but also in consideration of cost, equal water distribution, and conservative water discharge.

Chris tacking up the irrigation supply line

With drip tape ordered and in the mail, we laid a main line of 3/4 inch polyethylene pipe from the irrigation reservoir to a manifold box where we diverted the main stream into three separate polyethylene lines, each containing its own shutoff valve leading to a row of coldframes.  If you look back at the coldframes blog entry, you'll note that we have three rows of coldframes with the middle row having two separate sets of boxes.  We trenched the irrigation main lines under and into the center back of both the front and back row of boxes.  In the middle section, we split the line in the area between the boxes and then ran a line into the side of each box.  Another note of wisdom here - tape the ends of your irrigation lines shut before moving them through the dirt.  This will keep dirt from entering and inevitably clogging your lines.

End caps in two different configurations

Once the irrigation lines were in the boxes, we used a tee to split the line once more (in the front and back rows) and ran an equal length of line from tee to each end of the box.  The idea here was to keep the lines as equal as possible so as to ensure equal irrigation distribution.  Our last step in laying the irrigation mains was to secure them to the back of the boxes and cap the ends. Interestingly enough, the hardware store had a limited supply of caps, so we needed to gather two separate configurations.

The last step to completing the irrigation system was to install the newly arrived John Deere T-Tape and of course, testing.  We were able to purchase the necessary connectors and termination components for the t-tape upon ordering, so all we really needed to do was pierce the irrigation main, insert the connector, slip on a length of t-tape, and place a terminator on the end.  It doesn't just sound easy, it really was!

With the irrigation system installed, we eagerly tried one line alone.  Upon seeing it successfully work, we curiously attempted to run two lines at one - success.  Could we run all three boxes at once?  You betcha!  Our irrigation system was complete and we were ready to get growing!

One of our nearly finished fifteen coldframes

Cold Frame Extravaganza!

We began our Freedom Gardens pursuit with a goal-in-mind to extend Montana's growing season, which is May 1st to September 30th. One concept in particular drew our attention - Elliot Coleman's technique of covering produce inside a hoop-house for added protection, known as double covering. We hypothesized that a similar method of double covering could be achieved with the use of cold frames.

                                                                                                                                              

We knew we wanted a frame deeper than the one featured in the previous blog posted by Chris below, but were not quite satisfied by the dimensions set forth by Elliot Coleman - 8 to 12 inches high in the back, and 6 to 8 inches high in the front.  We decided to make our prototype dimensions

The prototype

21.5 inches high in the back and 9.5 inches in the front, with a distance of 4 feet between the front and back and 6 feet from side to side. When the cold frame was completed, we stepped back and critically analyzed.  We were still concerned about the height of the box - our thought was the taller the lid, the taller the plant could become.  We also figured we could gather another 6 square feet by adding a one foot ledge to the back of the box.  Our final adjustments led to a 12 inch front and a 24 inch back with a 5 foot depth and 6 foot width for 30 square feet of growing space per box.

When it comes to building, nothing substitutes a well thought-out drawing.  When we decided to build cold frames, every step was drawn out prior to action.  Fortunately, Mark E. possesses some impressive graphic skills, which turned our mere sketches into works of art!

Cold Frame Template - We followed these dimensions near exact with the exception of increasing the front and back box heights to 12 and 24 inches respectively.

The other rather important aspect of building, is calculating exactly how much materials you need to acquire in order to succeed.  Interestingly enough, our story began with a craigslist add - a third party was purchasing polycarb in bulk and offered the bulk discount to anyone interested.  In a few weeks, we obtained four 16 ft by 6 ft sheets of triple-ply polycarb.

Triple-ply polycarb sheets

Since we knew the dimensions of our boxes, we quickly went to work cutting the sheets down.  This was done easily with a circular saw,   a many toothed blade, and patience. We were now ready to build the cold frames.

The cold frame construction took place in three parts - joists, on site formation, and lids.

The joists were key to the cold frames.  After cutting the polycarb sheets down, we had 16 total lids.  One lid was dedicated to the prototype, so we knew we were going to place 15 cold frames on the fairgrounds.  We also realized that creating a continuous flowing cold frame vs. singular individual cold frames would save materials.  Given these points, we calculated that we'd need 19 joists in total. Once the joists were pieced together, we transported them to the fairgrounds.  Another time saving point worth mentioning, is to have your local lumber company deliver the necessary lumber to your work site!

Prior to delivery of joist and lumber to the fairgrounds, the site itself was greatly modified. Together with fairgrounds staff, we removed approximately 3 feet of existing soil   strata, and replaced it with top soil.  We tested the top soil prior to placement to assure the quality of the soil.  We then leveled our location to the best of our abilities with machinery and rakes.  The last order of business was to mark the exact areas where the cold frames were to be built.  We decided to angle the boxes approximately 30 degrees west of south in order to optimize evening sun capture.  We believed this would be necessary given our potential for extremely cold winter temperatures.

Site prior to construction

With the site prepared and the joists pre-constructed, building the cold frames themselves went pretty darn fast.  We began by placing the joists approximately 6 feet apart and then pieced them together using 12 foot 6 by 2s.  We alternately placed the 6 by 2s to increase overall structure stability.  The end walls were created with vertical placed 6 by 2s cut to match the final joist angle.

Cold frames without lids

At this point, we utilized a six foot level to make the frames as level from end to end and front to back as possible.  We then piled excess soil against the front, back, and sides of the boxes.  The next step to the building process was the lids; however, due to the timing of cold frame construction - late spring - we decided to plant the boxes and lid them at the end of the growing season.  We'll discuss the 2013 growing season and lessons learned in a separate blog post, so stay tuned.

To construct the lids, we utilized stacked 1 by 4s.  By stacking the boards, we were able to create a solid cross member while sustaining a rigid outer frame.  To further rigidity, we included wood glue in addition to screws. Once the
frames were constructed, we were ready
to attach the polycarb, or so we thought.

Recall our desire to include Elliot Coleman's double covering technique.  Well, our first intention was to simply lay shade cloth on top of plants in the evenings so as to decrease radiant heat loss at night.  The theory seemed sound, but we wanted to decrease the amount of times we needed to visit the site each day.  We instead decided to attach shade cloth on the inside of the lid frame while the polycarb would be attached on top or outside of the lid frame.

Lidded cold frames

Inside the lid

To begin the process, we laid the lid frames on top of the cold frames, lined the two up accordingly, and attached hinges. Once the hinges were attached, we were able to open the lid and attach the shade cloth.  We used staples to attach the shade cloth; however, we were concerned that the staples would simply tear right through the cloth, thus we utilized thin wood slats on top of the cloth and then stapled through slat and cloth into the lid frame.  Once the shade cloth had been applied, we were able to close the lids and place the poly carb.  With the lids attached, we were ready to see just how far we could stretch the growing season into a Missoula, Montana winter.  We're hoping to invest in a few logging temperature readers in 2014 to obtain and share temperature data with you - stay tuned!

One big pile of dirt!

Chris and Heath adding contours to the pile

The Fairground staff has been super helpful along our endeavor to create a concurrent educational and food producing operation. One of the first actions they did for us was to create two large piles of dirt - one we'll discuss later, and the other is the topic of this blog episode.

Our very good friend Steve E. had these piles created for us for two reasons - privacy and vertical growing space.  While both are extremely considerate and forward thinking ideas, we had one problem - water!?  At this moment in time, there exists a leak in the pipelines that carry water to this section of the fairgrounds.  Due to this minor hang up, we decided to explore drought tolerant plant species.

Why plant anything there at all you might ask.  If we consider soil erosion, the causal variables primarily include slope, precipitation, and vegetation.  While we cannot really control climatic events (leaving HAARP and cloud seeding out of the conversation), we can manipulate slope and vegetation.

There are two forms of slope control that immediately come to mind - terracing and contouring. One of the best examples of long lasting terracing in the world is Machu Picchu, in Peru; however, we decided to forgo terracing this mound for the time being, given our water issue.  We'll discuss terracing further in upcoming blogs this spring, though!

One of the issues with erosion we can witness in traditional agriculture is the formation of rills and gullies. In order to prevent these from forming, farmers are advised to plow with the contour.  Permaculture folk have their own alternative to this called a swale and generally will only disturb the soil immediately around the swale versus plowing an entire field along the contour.  In the long run, the idea behind both practices is the same - slow the flow of water, allowing it to penetrate into the soil on site rather than flow off the site all together.  Thus rainwater is captured more effectively and less reliance on irrigation is needed.

Given the small scale of our mound, we decided to emulate a mixture of the two - we'll call it contour shelving.  We started at the top of the mound and spiraled our way back to the bottom, creating a shelf around the mound from top to bottom.  We felt confident that the 14 inches of rain Missoula receives in an average year would flow to the shelves and sink into the mound itself.  Once we walked the shelves in, we readdressed them with rakes, creating a disturbed surface conducive to seeding.

Seeding the mound

The next step in the process was seeding of course!  Given our limited ability to irrigate the mound itself, we decided upon drought tolerant species, including clover, daikon radish, and bunch grasses. This was really the easiest part of the day, as it required simply casting seed throughout the mound. Of course, we took time and care to assure that seed was spread evenly across the shelves, but in many cases, we simply tossed seed at the mound. It was quite liberating!


How did the first season turn out, you ask? Well, if only we would have performed the work about two weeks earlier, we would have caught the last of spring's plentiful rainfall.  As it was, the rainfall after planting was meager at best, dramatically affecting our germination rate.  However, that being said, we did have all three species begin to take hold, albeit sparsely.  Perhaps the greatest observation came at the end of the growing season - many of the radishes that had taken root grew to fruition and actually produced seed.  Overall, while we were unable to outcompete the weeds by dispersing thousands of seed, we were able to gain a foothold on the mound.  Having learned from our procrastinate planting last year, we'll be sure to cast more seed this spring before the rains stop! Stay tuned for man vs. mound, round 2!

Graywater/Aquaponic Innovations

    Current centralized wastewater treatment technologies throughout the US remove roughly 80% of the macronutrients (heavy metals, nitrogen, phosphorus ... etc.) contained in wastewater streams before discharging the 'treated' wastewater into US waterways - streams, rivers, lakes.  One could argue that with greater technology comes greater treatment; however, when considering the energy necessary for current treatment, a more rational argument may point to the amount of wastewater originating from each private residence.  Consider the US EPA estimation of 100 gallons per person per day!

     We began research and development of graywater reuse combined with aquaponics in 2012.  Graywater is defined as wastewater stemming from household sinks, baths, showers, dishwashers, and clothes washers.  Aquaponics refers to a food growing system which utilizes an inhabited fish aquarium for irrigation and fertilization of edible plants.  Our pilot location was a 1920's apartment with twelve foot ceilings.  The concept was to capture wastewater exiting the kitchen sink in a bucket, then hoist the bucket to a high spot where we could slowly drain the bucket into a wetland system and ultimately into the fish tank.  Water from the fish tank, meanwhile, would be pumped up and into a series of grow beds above the tank, slowly draining excess water back into the tank.

The kitchen before system construction

Space within the apartment was extremely limited, thus we began devising a way to utilize vertical space.  With the concept in mind, we installed a 60 gallon fish tank complete with 4 koi.  Fish in aquaponics serve as the "canary in the coal mine" if you will.  If toxins are present in the system, or the pH is off, we will see it first in the health of the fish.  Healthy fish equal a healthy system overall.

Weight bearing ledgers installed

Our first order of business was to fully inspect the proposed area's structural integrity.  After poking around in the ceiling and walls, we were able to confirm that the   building was 'over built' -               structural timber was plentiful       and cheap in 1920s Missoula.  

By placing weight-bearing ledgers perpendicular to wall joists, we would be able to space the weight of the structure across the wall. Once the ledgers were up, it was time to create and install the wetland graywater system.

The wetland graywater system consisted of a series of specialized PVC pipes filled with medium, which would serve as a surface for bacteria and stability for the wetland plants.  Again, unfortunately, I did not think to take photographs as I was building the pipes or, as I like to call them, biofilters.  (The creation of this blog is helping me realize the necessary steps to have more valuable content.)  We utilized three types of biofilters, each having a slight difference in construction, but all having a very similar interior filter design.  By placing a stainless steel insert into the center of a tube, we were able to force the water down one side of the pipe and up the other.  We were able to modify this approach by simply adding a smaller diameter pipe inside the tube, forcing the water to travel down the inside pipe and then back up in the area between the two pipes.  In my opinion, this was the best filter model, as it requires little effort to build and lessens the chance for leakage.  Another model featured a smaller diameter pipe with a U shape; however, this filter proved to be the most troublesome of the bunch -  I'm not sure if it was the diameter difference or just an inappropriate attempt, but several times the pipe leaked.  If I were to set this system up again, I would certainly not include it.  Into each filter we fitted two outlets - a bib, or valve, near the bottom for draining and water sampling; and a barb adapter near the top for overflow.

Biofilters attached to the ledgers

Drain bucket, plants, and lights installed

We knew that we wanted aerobic bacteria so as to the limit unpleasant smells associated with anaerobic decomposition.  For this reason, we placed a large plastic wiffle ball in the bottom of each biofilter.  Inside each wiffle ball, we placed a bubbler and extended an air hose up and out of the biofilter.  While holding this air hose taunt, we filled the biofilter with large rocks, then more porous lava rock, followed by pea gravel. Finally, we planted wild harvested wetland plants in the pea gravel at the top of the tubes.  Once the filters were installed, they were filled with water from the aquarium in order to introduce beneficial bacteria and to feed the wetland plants.  We also added T5 grow lights above the filters to supplement lighting for the plants.

With the filters in place, we added a three-way valve under the sink that allowed us to divert water to a bucket or the sewer. Once the bucket was filled or, once a day, it was moved to the top of the system and allowed to drain into the first filter.   As the wastewater left the bucket, the incoming water displaced biofiltered water up and out of the first tube and into the next by way of the overflow adapter.  This water then displaces water in the next tube and so on until the bucket drains and additional overflow from the final filter enters the fish tank.

Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, I was beckoned to a new location and the project halted after about 2 months.  We never installed the planter shelves that would support edible plants watered from the fish tank, as I made the decision to move into another house that was attached to a wonderful yard (and thus the food forest was born ... but more on that later). However, I wanted to share this experience with anyone interested as it was a successful means to treat household wastewater and we certainly would have been able to grow food, while decreasing the volume of wastewater leaving the house.  We'll pick this project back up again at some point, whether it be another in-home system or a larger greenhouse demonstration project.  Stay tuned!

The Garlic Patch - no till gardening

Have you ever looked at a patch of weeds and thought, "I'm going to turn this into a garden?" This was the situation we faced when we first rented our community garden.  A local Missoula nonprofit, Garden City Harvest, rents out 15ft by 15ft garden plots at various locations throughout our community.  Garden plots run about $55/year and returning gardeners are given the first opportunity to re-rent their plot.  This is a key factor, for the primary reason, that conscientious farmers improve their soils from one year to the next, adding value and nutrients each consecutive growing season. That being said, our plot was fairly weed ridden when it came into our hands. Some may see this as a curse, but we saw it as a blessing as it meant our plot had laid fallow for at least a season.  By laying fallow with a cover crop of weeds, the soil organic content, and soil structure of our plot was had likely become higher than plots which are tilled twice per year every     year.

          Our first order of business was to remove the unwanted plants. The disciplines of permaculture (Mollison/Lawton/Holmgren/Holzer), natural farming (Fukuoka), and also basic soil texbooks suggest that tilling or plowing a field damages the availability of soil nutrients and soil structure.  When we stir up the soil, we increase the amount of oxygen, which in turn increases microbial activity.  This increased microbial activity and the physical breakup of soil aggregates during tilling leads to the break down of organic matter, which is essential to the water holding and nutrient holding capacity of the soil.  Once the organic matter is gone, microbial activity decreases and microbes begin to die, surrendering their bodily nutrients to the soil strata.  When plants are present, these nutrients can be utilized; however, when plants are not present, many nutrients will wash down and out of the soil strata.  Consider this - by increasing soil organic matter by 1%, we increase soil water holding capacity by 3.7%!

          Bearing this in mind, we utilized soil forks to remove unwanted grasses and weeds, taking care to disrupt the soil as little as possible.  Our main goal at this stage was to remove roots that would continue to grow - i.e., quackgrass rhizome growth.  Once the unwanted plants were removed, we added 2 bags (6 cubic feet) of Happy Frog soil conditioner and rough raked the whole plot.  We then mixed sand and approximately 2000 seeds of various edible species together to help evenly hand-sow our plot.  We chose this planting method in an attempt to out compete and weeds.

Our plot after 9 days

Our plot after ~ 39 days

In what seemed like no time at all, we had a raging garden of edibles. Sunchokes sprang from the ground and reached toward the sky as kale, radish, and mustard took the middle ground.

By late July, our garden was an oasis of green between gardens with neatly rowed crops and paths.  When we visited the plot, we saw little to no weeds.  We noticed weeds encroaching on the sides of the gardens, but very few within the garden itself.  In fact, the few weeds we did see inside the garden were spindly at best, desperately trying to gain hold amongst the edibles.  We made another discovery during this time - the ground was always moist and never dry, even during the hottest of summer days.  Granted, we were fortunate enough to have rented an irrigated plot, but this ran only once per week.  Turns out, having a crowded garden allows for greater soil coverage by plants, thus decreasing the amount of evaporation of soil water to the atmosphere!

 It was fantastic to visit the garden at this point - there was never much 'work' to do, rather, we admired the now flowering edibles, the insects they drew, and of course, the endless bounty of harvest!  During one visit, we harvested about 2/3 of the garden - flowers, tender seed pods, and stems, which in turn became 10 gallons of delicious green kim chi.  The yellow, white, and purple flowers added great aesthetics to the batch!

Our plot after ~ 140 days

By removing 2/3 of the plant matter from the garden, we allowed plants that were struggling with competition to fill in.  While we worried that this would allow for weed growth, we were pleasantly surprised to see tall, lanky kale begin to fill out and take over.  By the end of the growing season, we had about 1/3 of the plot in seed and the rest in purple leaf kale!

Seed harvest with Lia and J.B.

After a successful season, it was time to close the plot for winter. Sunchokes were dug up - some for eating, some for replanting elsewhere - and about 1/2 of the remaining seed stock was harvested.  Harvested seed stock was removed from the stem in complete pods and stored in brown paper bags over winter in a cool dark space.

Next, we employed a weed wacker to make light work of the above ground biomass.  This was raked to the side so that we could assess the plot and prepare for our next planting.


Thus began our garlic patch.  At this point, we made straight rows by pounding a stake into the ground, attaching string and then stretching it straight and securing it to another pounded post.  We were then able to dig a small trench for the garlic. Rows

Removing above ground biomass, while leaving root structure intact

were spaced roughly 12 inches apart and garlic cloves were spaced about 6 inches apart.  The cloves were placed about an inch under the soil surface and the trench filled back in.  Once the garlic was planted, we pulled the removed biomass back onto the plot and spread it around.  We then spread one bale of straw over the entire plot and whalla, the garden was prepared for the winter!

Now I wish we could show you pictures from the following growing season, but alas, no one in our group thought of taking any!?!

Making rows and planting garlic

What I can tell you is this - we visited the plot only a handful of times.  In our visits, we noticed that nearly all of the garlic had sprouted and in the rows between, seeds left over from the successful kale, mustard, and radishes had sprouted. We were again able to out compete the weeds with edibles, even though we used no herbicides and we planted no new seed.  At the end of the season, we counted 480 heads of garlic harvested from our little 15 ft by 15 ft plot!

We closed the plot this past growing season in a way quite

Closed for winter

similar to that noted above, albeit, this season we filled the garlic trenches back up with compost, then raked the soil, then added the biomass and straw.  I'll be sure to add pictures from 2014!

Side note - we will put a crop other than garlic in for 2015, as it is suggested that Alliums should only be planted in the same place for two consecutive years before rotation.  More on that later though!  Happy planting!!!