We began our Freedom Gardens pursuit with a goal-in-mind to extend Montana's growing season, which is May 1st to September 30th. One concept in particular drew our attention - Elliot Coleman's technique of covering produce inside a hoop-house for added protection, known as double covering. We hypothesized that a similar method of double covering could be achieved with the use of cold frames.
We knew we wanted a frame deeper than the one featured in the previous blog posted by Chris below, but were not quite satisfied by the dimensions set forth by Elliot Coleman - 8 to 12 inches high in the back, and 6 to 8 inches high in the front. We decided to make our prototype dimensions
The prototype |
When it comes to building, nothing substitutes a well thought-out drawing. When we decided to build cold frames, every step was drawn out prior to action. Fortunately, Mark E. possesses some impressive graphic skills, which turned our mere sketches into works of art!
Cold Frame Template - We followed these dimensions near exact with the exception of increasing the front and back box heights to 12 and 24 inches respectively. |
Triple-ply polycarb sheets |
Since we knew the dimensions of our boxes, we quickly went to work cutting the sheets down. This was done easily with a circular saw, a many toothed blade, and patience. We were now ready to build the cold frames.
The cold frame construction took place in three parts - joists, on site formation, and lids.
Prior to delivery of joist and lumber to the fairgrounds, the site itself was greatly modified. Together with fairgrounds staff, we removed approximately 3 feet of existing soil strata, and replaced it with top soil. We tested the top soil prior to placement to assure the quality of the soil. We then leveled our location to the best of our abilities with machinery and rakes. The last order of business was to mark the exact areas where the cold frames were to be built. We decided to angle the boxes approximately 30 degrees west of south in order to optimize evening sun capture. We believed this would be necessary given our potential for extremely cold winter temperatures.
Site prior to construction |
Cold frames without lids |
At this point, we utilized a six foot level to make the frames as level from end to end and front to back as possible. We then piled excess soil against the front, back, and sides of the boxes. The next step to the building process was the lids; however, due to the timing of cold frame construction - late spring - we decided to plant the boxes and lid them at the end of the growing season. We'll discuss the 2013 growing season and lessons learned in a separate blog post, so stay tuned.
To construct the lids, we utilized stacked 1 by 4s. By stacking the boards, we were able to create a solid cross member while sustaining a rigid outer frame. To further rigidity, we included wood glue in addition to screws. Once the
frames were constructed, we were ready
to attach the polycarb, or so we thought.
frames were constructed, we were ready
to attach the polycarb, or so we thought.
Recall our desire to include Elliot Coleman's double covering technique. Well, our first intention was to simply lay shade cloth on top of plants in the evenings so as to decrease radiant heat loss at night. The theory seemed sound, but we wanted to decrease the amount of times we needed to visit the site each day. We instead decided to attach shade cloth on the inside of the lid frame while the polycarb would be attached on top or outside of the lid frame.
Lidded cold frames |
Inside the lid |
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